A walk around Hoan Kiem Lake
03.11.2007 - The man sitting on a bench smiled and motioned for me to sit down. I thought at first he wanted to sell me something, because on Hoan Kiem...
HANOI — The man sitting on a bench smiled and motioned for me to sit down. I thought at first he wanted to sell me something, because on Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi's version of Seattle's Greenlake, a stroll usually calls for a snack, and vendors are at the ready with slices of chocolate bread, water, ice cream or oranges. It turns out that he wanted to show me his photo album and two pictures in particular: One of him as a soldier in uniform; the other of himself as a young man sitting next to Communist Party founder and war hero Ho Chi Minh. The lake is alive with throngs of people all the time. Cigarette sellers occupy a prime spot after dark, competing with each other by using the cartons to create towering displays. The man spoke no English, and I didn't get his name. But chances are if you come to Hanoi and take a stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake, you'll meet him or others like him. This is a wonderful place to meet people. The best time for a walk is early morning, when friends get together to do tai chi, aerobic dance to boom-box music, play badminton or lift barbells at portable sidewalk gyms. Our hotel is just a few blocks away, so we've taken to walking here before breakfast. The cafes open at 6 a.m. It was raining and chilly this morning, a good excuse for a ca phe sua hop, hot coffee in a glass with a layer of sweetened condensed milk in the bottom. Hoan Kiem (Lake of the Restored Sword) gets its name from a legend. In the 15th century, Emperor Le Thai To supposedly handed down a magic sword to a mythical tortoise living in the lake, helping him fight off Chinese invaders. Tortoise Tower, a three-tiered tower in the middle of the lake, looks mystical on a rainy morning like this one. One of the best spots for picture-taking is the fifth-floor rooftop of the City View Cafe on Dinh Tien Hoang Street, a few doors from the water puppet theater. Eighty cents buys a cooling banana and yogurt and a window table on the terrace, with a view of either the lake or rush-hour traffic. Your choice. Things to loveHanoi: • No Starbucks, McDonald's or flashy shopping malls — yet. • Hot or iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. A layer cake in a glass. • French baguettes (30 cents) and Creme caramel ($1) sold at French-style bakeries everywhere. • Walking around Hoan Kiem Lake anytime, but especially in the early morning. • Wandering Thanh Ha Street in the old quarter. No travelers' cafes or tourist shops, but lots of places selling fish heads, sugar cane and birthday cakes. • The garbage man who rings a bell to signal he's making his rounds through the neighborhood. • Watching the women balancing baskets of fruits and vegetables on their shoulders dodge motorcycle traffic while crossing the streets. • The hourlong water-puppet show at the Thang Long Puppet Theatre. Puppeteers stand waste-deep in water while manipulating fire-breathing dragons with hidden bamboo sticks.
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